Pulse Racing

As posted on 4Cycle.com

PULSE RACING

Re: Clone Oils

I prefer Red-E oil, which is a 20 wt synthetic oil that will increase your engine rpm's over some oils, has an additive that will suspend small particulates so they leave the engine when you drain it to replace it.

I also like Red-E because I don't have to change it after every time I leave the track, and have run a 200 lap race plus qualifying without changing the oil and have begun running two races on an oil change because the oil is still in good shape after a night of racing.

I started using Red-E a few years ago when I found out that the oil I was using had caster in it and was leaving huge deposits on the piston once my valve guides got a little wear on them. I switched to Red-E and have had no reason to switch since I began using it.

I even use the oil I drain out of my engines by straining it through a paint strainer, and putting it in a hand pump type oil can, that has a flexible spout, and use that to lube my rear axle bearings and the chain. It is a very good lube, so why not use it on the bearings and chain and get as much use out of it as possible? I also don't see why I need to change the oil after every race when the oil still looks good when I drain it after one race. I used to change my oil after every heat and feature, now, depending on conditions, I don't change the oil until it needs to be changed, and save a lot of money on oil, cause Red-E doesn't wear out after 30 minutes on the track.

My engines also look great when I tear them down for rebuilds, and now I don't rebuild my engines near as often as I did when we ran the flatheads. I think someone told me long ago that I needed to change the oil after every time I left the track, and I noticed a lot of other people doing the same thing, so I just did it, without questioning why they changed it so often. Now I just change it after two races or one race if it is really dusty out or I see a lot of dust getting by my filter.

I'm really not certain it has to be changed after two races, but it is cheap insurance to change it after two events on the same oil, and since there is no easy way to check the oil level with the engine on a 15 degree mount, I like to change it after no more than two races to make sure I have enough oil in the engine, which is easy to check when you drain it. It is also easy to check the condition of your oil when you drain it, if you use a clean container to drain the old oil in so you can inspect it.

I have found that after two races, the oil could probably be run longer, but I don't want to pres my luck for a couple of bucks.

If you are unhappy or unsure about your oil, try Red-E and know for certain that you are protected by an oil that was formulated just for kart racing engines. It's just that simple.

Dan Lemke
Pulse Racing
danl@mvn.net
618-732-6215

Photos are of a Yellow Clone Engine. Open Class, 20+ hsp. This engine has excess of 1000 laps including a 200 lap event.

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	Pulse Racing As posted on 4Cycle.com PULSE RACING Re: Clone Oils I prefer Red-E oil, which is a 20 wt synthetic oil that will increase your engine rpm's over some oils, has an additive that will suspend small particulates so they leave the engine when you drain it to replace it. I also like Red-E because I don't have to change it after every time I leave the track, and have run a 200 lap race plus qualifying without changing the oil and have begun running two races on an oil change because the oil is still in good shape after a night of racing. I started using Red-E a few years ago when I found out that the oil I was using had caster in it and was leaving huge deposits on the piston once my valve guides got a little wear on them. I switched to Red-E and have had no reason to switch since I began using it. I even use the oil I drain out of my engines by straining it through a paint strainer, and putting it in a hand pump type oil can, that has a flexible spout, and use that to lube my rear axle bearings and the chain. It is a very good lube, so why not use it on the bearings and chain and get as much use out of it as possible? I also don't see why I need to change the oil after every race when the oil still looks good when I drain it after one race. I used to change my oil after every heat and feature, now, depending on conditions, I don't change the oil until it needs to be changed, and save a lot of money on oil, cause Red-E doesn't wear out after 30 minutes on the track. My engines also look great when I tear them down for rebuilds, and now I don't rebuild my engines near as often as I did when we ran the flatheads. I think someone told me long ago that I needed to change the oil after every time I left the track, and I noticed a lot of other people doing the same thing, so I just did it, without questioning why they changed it so often. Now I just change it after two races or one race if it is really dusty out or I see a lot of dust getting by my filter. I'm really not certain it has to be changed after two races, but it is cheap insurance to change it after two events on the same oil, and since there is no easy way to check the oil level with the engine on a 15 degree mount, I like to change it after no more than two races to make sure I have enough oil in the engine, which is easy to check when you drain it. It is also easy to check the condition of your oil when you drain it, if you use a clean container to drain the old oil in so you can inspect it. I have found that after two races, the oil could probably be run longer, but I don't want to pres my luck for a couple of bucks. If you are unhappy or unsure about your oil, try Red-E and know for certain that you are protected by an oil that was formulated just for kart racing engines. It's just that simple. Dan Lemke Pulse Racing danl@mvn.net 618-732-6215 Photos are of a Yellow Clone Engine. Open Class, 20+ hsp. This engine has excess of 1000 laps including a 200 lap event.
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