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Alright I know you all you long time readers of Bob's have heard this before and some stuck in your ways but here go's.

2+ years ago I cautiously switched to Red-E oil. I was reading some of the outrageous claims seen by others using Red-E here on Bob's. I kept thinking snake oil no oil can do all that is being claimed. So, one day I called Marilyn @ Red-E and started grilling her (not an easy task) about these claims made of this oil. She talked me into trying it in our stock animal and to keep an open mind AND to follow their engine building and tuning instructions.

It's hard for me to follow someone else's build and tuning instructions because I know everything, or so I thought.

I begrudgingly checked the engine for recommended tolerances, reset the mychron rpm redline and cautiously poured in the Red-E.

Our first race on the Red was on a 3rd mile oval and we qualified last. Not being one to give up easily I put in the recommended hotter plug and leaned out the carb, way lean and we went on to win the feature by 10 karts. This was our first win in an animal and in the heat of the moment I was attributing the win to my daughters superior driving skills and my along with my world class chassis tuning skills. Truth is my daughter is an above average driver but 2 years ago my oval kart tuning skills sucked.

I downloaded the mychron onto my laptop packed up and went home. Couple days later I started looking at the data from that race and started comparing to pre-Red-E data at the same track. First I realized that we had changed nothing except the oil, plug, carb jetting and gear ratio from previous outings to the same track. All the claims were true, our cht's dropped, our rpm's increased even though we dropped teeth and we were faster out of the hole.

Yeah I know, you've heard this before and your choice of oil works for you. Maybe your competition isn't as stiff as what we are running against but we need every edge we can get to go to the podium and I fully believe that Red-E has completed that package to give us the winning edge.

The real purpose of this post other than performance came to me last night after I tore this 2+ year old animal down to see what needed freshening as we just finished our winter series. Now bear in mind that the only parts I've changed during this time are rings once, gaskets, went to the AN001 and springs when they became legal and valves when I put in the cam. As I measured every friction point in the engine I found that every single point was still well within tolerance except the spring pressure (non oil related)! Carbon? What the hell are you guys talking about carbon? There was one small patch about the size of a dime on the exhaust side of the plug hardly enough to even raise the eyebrow of even the finest tech inspector. We had 2 IKF Grand Nationals here this summer Sprint and Road Course and none of the Red-E podiums got DQ'ed for carbon or anything else. I could take the bearings out of this engine, clean them up and sell them as new, same with the wrist pin, cam, shims, crank but not the rod even though it measures perfect we have spun this engine consistently at 7,200 and as high as 7,500, so would want to x-ray the rod before passing it off as new. I would put new springs and top ring in this engine and run all next summer if we weren't jumping up a class.

Bottom line guys and girls believe what you want but I know what I know and if you follow the Red-E operating instructions you will get faster AND your rebuilds will be further apart and less expensive. Everybody is trying to figure a way to make karting cheaper. Well part of that equation comes in a bottle and it's called Red-E.

Roger Freeborn
Freeborn Racing
Tigard, Oregon
503-805-0583